The Parking Lot

I noticed Roarke does not have a place to give a review on him, so I am just going to do it here in the forums. You're website deserves so much more attention, keep it up! I appreciated the updated sjm4306 RGB kit you sent me with extra bivert modules, it does not go unnoticed. 10 out of 10 stars experience. 😊

Looking for expert help with a GameBoy Light LCD that I messed up. You can see I tried to do some soldering to try and fix it, gave up, obviously can tell some of it is bridged there. This happened during my attempt to bivert my GameBoy Light. I'll appreciate any advice.

What's in your kit: 1x Backlight Controller 1x Touch Sensor 2x 22 ohm Resistors 1x 2.7k ohm Resistor 1x 470uf Capacitor 1x 3904 npn Transistor Wires Helpful Tutorials: - Disassemble and clean your Gameboy - Tutorial coming soon - Blacklighting your DMG - Tutorial coming soon -Biverting your DMG - Tutorial coming soon We'll be starting this tutorial assuming that you have already disassembled and cleaned your DMG, you have prepped the screen for your backlight, and biverted the unit, if you so desire. 1) Solder one of the 22 ohm resistors on to the controller in the two through holes in between the "VCC" pad and the "A" pad. Start by tinning the RGB Backlight's contact pads, and soldering the wires to the backlight (wires are included with the backlight). Clip off any excess length on the resistor's legs. 2) Mount the Controller on the backside of the LCD board, just above the resistor marked R2. It can be mounted in a variety of manners, or places, personally I tack it on with a small dab of hot glue. 3) Use one of the grey wires to wire VCC and GND to the legs of C2 as shown. 4) Start by tinning the RGB Backlight's contact pads, and soldering the wires to the backlight (wires are included with the backlight). 5) Place the Backlight and polarizing film underneath the screen as described in the backlighting tutorial, and feed the wires through the square hole beneath the screen which houses the capacitor labeled C2. 6) Solder the Backlight's power to the controller's pad marked "A". 7) Solder the Backlight's Blue ground to the controller's pad marked "KB". 8) Solder the Backlight's Green ground to the controller's pad marked "KG". 9) Solder the Backlight's RED ground to the controller's pad marked "KR". 10) Solder the Yellow ribbon cable to the three through holes on the touch sensor. I recommend using headers if you have them as it makes assembly/disassembly easier since the touch sensor will be mounted to the case. 11) The Touch Sensor has each through hole labeled - VCC, I/O, GND. Wire I/O to SW1, VCC to VCC & GND to GND, there are other points that VCC & GND can be soldered to, as shown in the picture below. a 12) You'll want to partially re-assemble in order to test the controller. If you notice any flickering when Green and Blue colors are displayed, then you'll want to install the second 22 ohm resistor on the Green's Ground 13) Mount the touch sensor in your desired location, I like to mount it on the front half of the shell so it'll be in the top right corner, and I mount it with a dab of hot glue. If you use headers, and mount the Touch Sensor in the location i do, you will need to trim the top corner of the LCD board. 14) Wire the Decoupling Capacitor the the DC-DC Board, the negative leg of the cap goes to GND, and the positive leg to VCC. 15) If you wish to turn LEDs on or of via the controller, run a wire from the pad marked "Ext_LED" to the Base pin of the Transistor. 16) Run a wire from the collector pin of the Transistor to a regulated 5v point. 17) Run a wire from the Emitter pin of the Transistor the the Positive leg of the LEDs, for multiple LEDs wire in parallel.